michael
79 posts
Joined: 02/03/2007 23:58:38
Location: Carpi Italy
contact points
Posted: Jan 10, 2015 12:02 PM
hi anybody know if you can use red points instead of blue p
oints in my 59d distributer.
thanks
Posted: Jan 10, 2015 12:03 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
No. Red points for 45d, Blue points for 59d
http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=page&id=74
see item 26 under the section for 45d/59d units
Posted: Jan 10, 2015 10:21 PM
mini_dave
11 posts
Joined: 13/10/2006 14:50:52
Location: wokingham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Printed circuit board on the back of the instrument panel
solder a new contact point on using a soldering iron
Posted: Dec 17, 2006 10:16 AM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Firing on 3 cylinders?
Did you also replace the dizzy cap, rotor arm, condenser and replace and set the contact breaker points?
Posted: Mar 23, 2008 08:25 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Ignition basics
Do you not have a Haynes manual? The wiring diagram is in there. The first thing to check is that, with the ignition switch on, you have 12volts at the + terminal of the coil. Not sure if an 83 model has the ballast resistor circuit or not, but either way if you've got voltage there the problem must be further along. The coil is earthed via the points, so that when the points are open there should be 12 volts at the moving contact, and when they're closed there should be zero. The fixed contact of the points should be earthed (via the casing of the distributor). It's very easy, when replacing the points, to get the little connectors and nylon insulators the wrong way round, so check those.
Posted: Jul 19, 2010 04:42 PM
Re:
When were the Spark Plugs last replaced? What about the ht leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, plus the contact breaker points and condenser (unless it has electronic ignition of course?) too, just when were they replaced and set?
Posted: May 03, 2009 10:21 PM
Carb dashpot needs topping up with oil, when were the electrics last replaced? i.e. Spark Plugs, HT Leads, Dizzy Cap, Rotor Arm, Contact Breaker Points and the Condenser?
Posted: Jul 31, 2009 03:06 AM
Johnny Thorpe
27 posts
Joined: 11/01/2007 19:47:41
Location: Norwich United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
irregular revs with choke
turns out it wasnt the head gasket thank funk! but it was a problem with the compresser and oil wasnt going to the dashpot, and the contact points were pitted to buggery, and the timing was slightly out which i had expected, sounds simple really, i probably should have checked them things myself but i didnt really have the time or knowledge to find out, but the car runs beautifully now, its like shit off a shovel and it was actually really cheap to do
Posted: Jan 26, 2007 05:26 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
problem starting my mini
it do anything when you turn the key? like click or struggle to turn over. id cheak earths are clean at contact points to body and that battery ends are on tight and making a good contact, and lastly try jump starting if battery is flat. a big current is reqired for starting so other electrics may work but it wont start. if battery is flat cheak alternator and battery condition.
Posted: Sep 29, 2007 08:47 PM
more probs/fuel pump/in-line fuses
inline fuse holders used by rover are rubbish, its best replace them with blade type inline ones or get some water proof inline ones from maplins or simular. the catches are the weak points the sping contacts push the catch open.
Posted: Oct 20, 2007 07:12 PM
163 posts
Joined: 09/09/2004 09:32:06
Location: DK-2000 Frederiksberg Denmark
DWELL!
Yes, this will cause massive power losses; it sounds like your contact breaker points are wildly open - try upping the dwell by closing the points to around 55 to 57 degrees (off the top of my head, but it should get you pretty close to running better than it is). Sorry, I can't help you with your digital meter - I'm using a well-trusted analogue.
Posted: Dec 15, 2007 02:29 AM
Calum
1 posts
Joined: 24/06/2007 19:38:59
Location: Hassocks United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Mini not starting, running out of ideas of what the problem could b
Hi, i wonder if any1 could help me. i have a 1987 mini city e. It wont start, it turns over but just wont start. iv replaced HT leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm, contact breaker points and condensor. Its got a 1/4 of a tank full of fuel in but stil wont start. iv checked that i gets a spark but seems quite weak. Does any1 have any advice please?
Posted: Jan 17, 2008 09:48 PM
Nay
12 posts
Joined: 31/01/2005 10:55:13
Location: Sittingbourne United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
both! before and after. checked all the leads contacts points sparks leads u name it its been checked and chnaged.
Posted: Mar 06, 2005 12:16 PM
Neil
28 posts
Joined: 11/02/2005 07:20:41
Location: Chichester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Ignition
Hi again Nay, When you screw the contact breakers to the distrubutor (baseplate) this should provide the earth to the coil when the contact breakers are closed. If you have a resistance (ohm) meter measure between the screw holding the contacts in place and a good earth point on the car. This should be a very low reading of a few ohms or less. If there is an open circuit we are back to looking for a contact path from the baseplate to the distributor body. This is normally provided by the earth braid I referred to. This is difficult to see, but is normally a fine piece of wire braid from under the baseplate to the side of the distributor body. The point is that if you do not have a good earth between the baseplate and the car you will get little or no spark. Good luck, Neil
Posted: Mar 22, 2005 05:39 PM
123 distributer
if your keeping it pritty standard then either get converted dystribitor for 998, or find 1985-90 metro one. or contact here be about half price of 123 http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/aprods.htm#two
if starting is a problem a few things id look at, cheak earth leads have good contection between engine and body and battery to body. rub down any corosion. try starting see if its improved. if still poor battery may be bit weak with age ect. around 45 amp hour i use to best this see if starts quicker with jump leads to battery from anouther battery. also id replace the points urs will have sliding points type, replace dystribitor cap unless contacts are brass (most are aluniunm and dont last), replace ignition leads, inspect plugs and replace if nessary. bp5es or bp6es ngk would suit ur engine
Posted: Feb 22, 2008 12:04 AM
Midnight_mini
8 posts
Joined: 30/03/2009 04:48:14
Location: apo United States
idle/starting
Hey everybody, I recently had some trouble with getting my mini started and bought myself some new contact points, condenser, plugs, and wires. I have a 1986 998cc carberated engine. It actually work fine although it would idle a bit high. But today again i couldn't get it started and when i did idle was all off and it sound crappy. Could my points and condenser be bad already? Or is there something else causing the problem? oh and when i tried cranking it smelled like i was flooding it. Also i was wondering is there a newer type distributor that would fit my engine to rid myself with dealing with condensers and points?
Posted: Nov 25, 2009 10:36 AM
Principools
95 posts
Joined: 25/10/2005 00:47:23
Location: Crowborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
start
Could be either a loose/cracked plug lead. Check pionts dizzy cap and rotor arm, any wear will be self evident and its very easy to replace all of these items. Short term the rotor arm and contact points on the cap can be cleaned with emery paper. The motor will tick over fine but if a weak spark is being produced the more the engine revs the more the struggle for a spark. So check the above and it will probably cure the problem,,,,,,,hopefully
Posted: Dec 30, 2005 12:17 PM
Stuart
243 posts
Joined: 17/05/2005 11:14:28
Location: Frome United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
crunching starter
every now and then, when i start my mini, whether its been running for a bit or not, occasionaly it makes a nasty grinding noise when i turn the ignition on, i think it may be the starter motor as i have replaced spark plugs, points, and contacts. any ideas folks? Stu
Posted: Oct 18, 2005 01:45 PM